Every July, Kyoto becomes the stage for one of Japan’s most renowned and enduring festivals: Gion Matsuri. A central piece of that celebration is the Yamaboko floats and the two main processions. The first is Saki Matsuri (“Early Festival”), and the second is Ato Matsuri (“Later Festival”) — the part this blog is about.
What is Ato Matsuri?
Ato Matsuri is the second half of Gion Matsuri, taking place from July 18 to 24.
In contrast to Saki Matsuri, which is larger with more floats, more crowds, more “public party” atmosphere and many street stalls, Ato Matsuri tends to feel quieter, more intimate, more reflective — more neighborhood-oriented.
It culminates with the Ato Matsuri Yamaboko Junko (the float procession) on July 24, in which the floats parade in reverse direction compared to the earlier procession.
The Yamaboko Floats: What They Are & How They Feature in Ato Matsuri
Before talking details, it’s helpful to know what Yamaboko floats are.
The Yamaboko are grand floats used in Gion Matsuri. There are two main types: hoko (which are large, tall, heavy, often with central poles) and yama (smaller, sometimes more modest, some with pine-tree poles instead of big poles) .
In Ato Matsuri, there are about 10 floats displayed and then carried in procession.
Some of the specific floats seen in Ato Matsuri include:
Ōfune Boko (Great Ship Float), Suzuka Yama, Taka Yama, En no Gyōja Yama, Hachiman Yama, Hashi Benkei Yama, Jōmyō Yama, Kita Kannon Yama, Koi Yama, Kuronushi Yama, Minami Kannon Yama.
What Makes Ato Matsuri Special
Here are a few reasons people love this part of Gion Matsuri:
Quieter, more contemplative atmosphere
Because there are fewer floats, fewer ancillary events like food stalls, and overall less crowd than during Saki Matsuri, Ato Matsuri allows more breathing room. It’s easier to appreciate details: the craftsmanship of the floats, the decorations, the voices and sounds, the people.Treasure Displays & Byōbu Matsuri
Many floats have “treasure display areas” open to visitors: these include ancient textiles, sculptures, tapestries, other cherished artifacts. Simultaneously, the Byōbu Matsuri (Folding Screen Festival) sees local residents and companies display private treasures such as screens and heirloom items. It gives a closer look at Kyoto’s domestic artistry and history.Revivals & Restoration
Some floats have been revived after long absences. For example, Ōfune Boko (the Great Ship Float) returned to the Ato Matsuri in 2014 after being absent for 125 years. Taka Yama is another one revived.Spiritual & Cultural Significance
While much of the festival is festive, processions, floats, and rituals retain religious meaning: purifying the city, blessing inhabitants, bidding farewell to deities of Yasaka Shrine before returning them. For many locals, the ritual side is touching.Visual and Sensory splendour
The floats themselves are works of art: woodwork, textiles (often Nishijin weaving), metal ornaments, lanterns. They are visually exquisite, especially under lantern or evening lights. Seeing them up close during Yoiyama nights, walking among them, hearing traditional music — it’s very immersive.
Tips for Visitors: How to Make the Most of Ato Matsuri
If you plan to take in Ato Matsuri (or are thinking about it), here are some tips:
Go during Yoiyama (July 21-23 nights) to see floats beautifully lit, see treasures, feel a relaxed evening atmosphere. Less crowded than main daytime processions.
Visit the treasure display areas: take time to look at the decorations, tapestries, folding screens. These often give insight into Kyoto’s history and craftsmanship.
Watch the procession on July 24: even though it’s smaller than the Saki Matsuri parade, it’s still quite moving, especially with the sense of farewell to the deities.
Choose vantage points carefully: since the floats travel the same route in reverse, some spots that are crowded during the first procession might be more accessible then.
Dress comfortably: summer in Kyoto is hot and humid; bring water, wear light clothes, good shoes. If possible, a yukata adds a special feel.
Observe respectfully: some parts are religious and solemn. Be mindful in shrines, during the mikoshi return, respect rope barriers or float areas, avoid obstructing parade routes.
Stay hydrated and avoid peak heat: mornings may be better for photographing or seeing floats before the sun gets high.
Reflections: What Ato Matsuri Tells Us About Tradition, Community, and Renewal
Ato Matsuri is not just a sequel to the grand Saki Matsuri. It embodies several deeper lessons and cultural values:
Balance: Between spectacle and intimacy; between public festivity and private tradition. Ato Matsuri shows how even huge festivals benefit from quieter, reflective moments.
Resilience of tradition: The reinstatement of floats after long absences, the careful maintenance of the Yamaboko, and the preservation of crafts (textiles, carpentry) show how communities guard their heritage.
Community identity: Neighborhoods, local families, artisans, shrine authorities all contribute. The festival is as much about local pride and belonging as it is about culture for tourists.
Spiritual grounding: The fold-screen displays, the blessings, the rituals remind people that festivals are not only entertaining — they connect with beliefs, with gratitude, with remembrance.
Conclusion
If you find yourself in Kyoto in mid to late July, experiencing Ato Matsuri is something special. It’s a chance to see Gion Matsuri from a different lens — less crowded, perhaps more soulful; less commercial, more rooted in culture and community; a pause after the full force of the festival’s first half.
Walking among the Yamaboko floats, gazing at ancient tapestry, hearing the flutes and drums under lantern light, watching the processional float quietly through the streets — all of it makes Ato Matsuri more than just a “second act.” It is an essential part of what gives Gion Matsuri its layered beauty.
Visit : https://www.gionfestival.org/yamaboko-floats/ato-matsuri/
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