The famous Gion Festival in Kyoto, Japan offers an elaborate kaleidoscope of sensory experiences. Consisting of massive amounts of dedication, activity, decorative art treasures, music and dance, the enormous festival and its multitudinous components contribute to tremendous cultural significance. Though the festival’s ancient roots lie in fear of epidemics spreading during Japan’s rainy season, the Gion Festival has become a symbol of both the integrity of Kyoto’s fantastic cultural heritage and international exchange.
Some of the highlights of the Gion Matsuri (Japanese for “festival”) are its 34 festival yama and hoko floats, collectively called yamaboko. The Gion Festival yamaboko are decorated with the best arts and craftsmanship available in Kyoto, one of the cultural capitals of Japan and the world. In fact, the Gion Festival’s textile collection is internationally renowned amongst experts. The spectacular yamaboko are rebuilt and deconstructed each year, and have been for centuries. As such, they’ve long represented the socio-cultural affluence of the city. Fleets of musicians and dancers trained since their youth accompany the processions with music, calls, and dance. The crowds that throng central Kyoto to attend the Gion Festival do so in pouring rain alternating with burning sun, unwittingly joining in the ascetic practices central to this extravagant Shinto purification ritual.
The Gion Matsuri takes place throughout July, the heart of the rainy season: humidity alternates with torrential downpours and overpowering sun. Before modern sanitation and antibiotics, this formed the perfect conditions for epidemics, which could spread quickly and widely, killing many. In the late 9th century, such epidemics struck the Kyoto region once every three years, and people believed that these were punishments sent by angry spirits.
In the year 869 C.E., plague-ridden corpses clogged the Kamo River coursing through the Gion neighborhood in central Kyoto. Emperor Seimei called for a Shinto ritual to appease the angry spirits, and to pray for their support instead. We can surmise that it worked: when another epidemic struck, another ritual was held, and so on. By a century later, what we now know as the Gion Festival had become an annual event.
When Does the Gion Festival Take Place?
As mentioned, the Gion Matsuri takes place for the entire month of July. It breaks down into two major parts: the Saki Matsuri (“Early Festival”) and the Ato Matsuri (“Later Festival”).
● The Saki Matsuri happens July 10-17, peaking on July 15, 16, and 17.
● The Ato Matsuri takes place July 18-24, peaking on the 23rd and 24th.
The Saki Matsuri and Ato Matsuri peak days are known as yoiyama, when festival-going throngs crowd central Kyoto, in what could be called tremendous street parties. In addition, there are smaller-scale and less-public activities before and after the Saki Matsuri and Ato Matsuri. Throughout July, the city of Kyoto engages with Gion Matsuri preparations, rituals, celebrations, dance and music performances, processions, and other festivities.
The official reason for the festival is purification and supplication of deities, to protect the city from rainy-season-related epidemics. But the spectacular yama and hoko win most of the public’s attention, particularly during their processions through downtown Kyoto on the mornings of July 17 and 24.
Most of the multi-storeyed hoko proudly orient around their shingi, a very tall, delicately ornamented central pole. Most of the yama orient around a central pine tree. Both connect the deities and elements in the heavens with humans and other beings and elements on earth. Yamaboko also come in alternative shapes resembling ships (Fune Boko and Ofune Boko), umbrellas (Ayagasa Boko and Shijo Gasa Boko), or bridges (Hashi Benkei Yama and Jomyo Yama).
Nearly all the yamaboko are dedicated to their own life-sized sacred statue of a deity, saint, empress, warrior-monk, Buddhist sage, or child-medium. Many of these sacred statues and their costumes are also historical art treasures in their own right, sculpted and dressed by master artisans.
Altogether, 24 yama and ten hoko take part in the Saki Matsuri and Ato Matsuri processions. The Saki Matsuri features 23 yamaboko, and the Ato Matsuri features 11. As you might guess, the Saki Matsuri is well suited for lovers of activity and crowds, whereas the Ato Matsuri appeals to those who prefer a more relaxed experience.
Why Are the Yamaboko So Elaborately Decorated?
The short answer is: for Kyoto townspeople to flash their material success and cultural sophistication, without getting into trouble.
At first, the festival hoko consisted simply of poles, like banners or halberds. But as time went by, the hoko became larger and needed wheels. Then they became more complex and decorative. Eventually, different festival communities vied with each other to have the most beautiful and extravagant yamaboko. Secrecy and socio-economic exclusivity were two historical strategies for the Gion Matsuri communities to compete for the best yamaboko.
Central Kyoto has long been headquarters for Japan’s kimono industry, and yamaboko ornamentation became a symbol for the affluence of kimono merchants. Historically, merchants were at the bottom of Japan’s social strata, but Kyoto’s ties with the silk route helped the kimono merchants’ wealth grow. However, displays of wealth were highly restricted by the government, whose members did not want to be outclassed. The yamaboko provided a convenient loophole.
Unfortunately, the burst of Japan’s economic bubble in the late 20th century has led to a sharp decline in the kimono industry. But the Gion Festival and its yamaboko have been recognized as an essential part of this World Heritage Event, and testimony to centuries of the kimono industry’s glorious past.
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