Gion Matsuri Festival 2022 in Japan | Gionfestival.org

The Gion Festival is one of Japan’s most vast and richest cultural events, so much so that it’s been recognized as a World Heritage Event. Known as “Gion Matsuri” in Japanese, it’s also perhaps Japan’s most famous annual festival, and takes place for the entire month of July. It began in the year 869, making it the world’s oldest urban festival. 

What does the Gion Festival celebrate? Basically it’s an enormous purification ritual, and invites an array of deities to Kyoto to protect residents and visitors from epidemic-related illnesses and other harm. The streets of Kyoto light up with paper lanterns as in the Gion Festival neighborhood, where people can watch the gigantic yamaboko floats being built and decorated with treasures, all done by traditions handed down across generations. The streets open up to traditional cotton yukata and kimono fashions, food and game stalls, rows of paper lanterns, and unique festival music. Staying true to their roots, the Gion Festival keeps people close to their tradition with abundance in spirituality with signs of Shintō, Mahayana Buddhism, Zen, Greek Mythology, Islam, Christianity, and Taoism. Let’s dive more into the depths of this tradition of the KyotoGion Matsuri and learn more.

Gion Matsuri History

As mentioned, the roots of Gion Matsuri date back to 869 C.E., when a terrible plague had spread throughout the city of Kyoto. Then, like now, the hot, humid, and storm-prone rainy season in midsummer formed ideal conditions for the outbreak of various diseases. In the 9^th century, the emperor believed that angry spirits or onryō were punishing the people of Kyoto for wrongdoing. So he called for a ritual known as goryō-e, which means a meeting of benevolent spirits. Participants carried 66 hoko—a long spear or a flag carried upright—one representing each region of the country a that time, so that all places and people could request divine protection from harm. We can only guess that the ritual seemed to produce good results, because it was called for again and again. By the year 1000, this call for blessings from benevolent spirits became an annual tradition. Japan’s indigenous religion, the nature-based Shinto or “Way of the Spirits,” has an emphasis on purification.

Gion Festival Schedule

The Gion Festival is one of many different kinds of Japanese floatfestivals. It is divided into two parts: the large-scale Saki Matsuri (“Early Festival”) and a smaller-scale Ato Matsuri (“Later Festival”).

The Saki Matsuri starts from July 10 with the construction of 23 yamaboko floats. Each float has its own shrine and treasure display area, which begin to open to the public on July 13 and peak on July 16 with the yoiyama street parties. For these, Kyoto’s downtown streets become pedestrian-only, and thousands of people throng the festival celebrations. The next morning, on July 17, sees the spectacular procession of the 23 yamaboko floats, welcoming the Yasaka Shrine deities to purify downtown Kyoto. That same night, the Yasaka Shrine deities are brought to central Kyoto in ornate portable shrines, weighting several tons and carried on the shoulders of countless chanting men. This procession is called the Shinkosai.

The second half of the Gion Festival, the Ato Matsuri, starts on July 18, with the construction of 11 yamaboko floats. It’s more relaxed and intimate than the larger Saki Matsuri, and more like the Gion Festival used to be, before it got so well-known. There is another yoiyama celebration, the three nights before the Ato matsuri peaks on July 24. That morning, the yamaboko floats go in procession on the same route as the Saki Matsuri, but in reverse, as  a farewell ritual for the three Yasaka Shrine deities. That night, the deities are carried back to the Yasaka Shrine in a procession called Kankosai.

During both the Saki Matsuri and Ato Matsuri there is another subfestival, called the Byōbu Matsuri, or “Folding-Screen Festival.” While it’s completely discretionary, some historical residents and businesses generously display their privately-owned heirlooms (such as folding screens) to the public at this time. This makes a stroll through the Gion Festival neighborhoods like both a tour through the “moving museums” of the yamaboko floats, and a hunt for secret treasures. Though the Ato Matsuri is generally smaller and quieter than the Saki Matsuri, its Byōbu Matsuri displays are more common.

Considered the best festival in Japan, the Gion Matsuri features a total of 34 floats or yamaboko which are classed as two types: 24 yama and 10 hoko. Generally, the hoko are gigantic multi-storeyed floats that can weigh up to 12 tons. Up to 50 men pull hoko by thick ropes through the streets of Kyoto. The yama are generally smaller, with a pine tree as their connector to the heavens. Men pull some yama with thick ropes, and roll others on wheels with shoulder-level wooden supports. But the lines between yama and hoko can blur: you will see yama that look like a hoko, as well as some small hoko.

The Gion Festival originated as a ritual to ward away epidemics, as well as a community-building event. We could say that covid has re-inspired a return to these roots. Many people have been using this time to pray for health and wellbeing, and to appreciate anew the preciousness of simple acts like connecting with family and friends over a cup of tea. In addition, the GionMatsuri’s purpose has expanded to offer millions of people rich experiences and growing knowledge about Kyoto, Japanese and Asian culture.